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2016年11月1日星期二

The dial

The Breguet Classique 7147 may be a comparatively new timepiece, launched earlier this year at Baselworld 2016, but it subscribes to the traditional design codes which have led to the brand's esteemed reputation. There is no question about the parentage of this glorious exemplar of haute horlogerie; it is undeniably Breguet.
Image for watch review of Breguet Classique 7147 - Baselworld 2016 novelty
Blued-steel Breguet hour and minute hands provide a reassuring sense of familiarity, eloquently expressing the prevailing time. The elevated standing of Breguet has led to its name entering horological parlance. The aforementioned hour and minute hands are 'Breguet hands', featuring two eyes near their tips, surpassing their mere functional role with a delicious dose of style.
The central dial area is adorned with clou de Paris hobnailing, expertly brought to life with the deft use of a rose-engine lathe. There is a wonderful authenticity to this guilloché motif which transcends the inferior stamped dials, popularised by some lesser marques.
The intricate pattern is performed on said rose-engine lathe, manually controlled by a skilled craftsman. The rose-engine lathe necessitates years to master. These machines are no longer manufactured and the guillocher is responsible for maintaining their own lathe, learning of its idiosyncrasies and coaxing it to produce the finest work.
Contrast is delivered with an asymmetrically positioned small seconds display, tastefully adorned with a basketwork pattern.
The hours eschew 'Breguet numerals', often found on the maison's enamel dials, in favour of Roman numerals depicted on a silvered 18-carat gold dial. The Roman numerals are presented on a seemly hour circular, sumptuously adorned with satiné circulaire, delivering admirable readability. This is a dial to be slowly savoured and appreciated with a discerning eye.
A sauté piqué pattern provides crisp delineation between the hour circle and the minute track. Everything is beautifully defined.
Such was the innovative prowess of Abraham-Louis Breguet that he conceived the 'secret signature' back in 1795, keen to prevent counterfeit watches undermining his revered name. On the Classique 7147, the legendary 'secret signature' nestles discreetly either side of the number 'XII', doffing its hat to tradition while according a degree of reassurance to the would-be buyer that this is a genuine Breguet.
The apparent simplicity of the Classique 7147 aids interpretation but belies the colossal challenges overcome in bringing it to magnificent fruition. vedere di piu rolex orologi e Bell & Ross

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